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Locations
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Species Summary 
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Cliche', alliteration and hyperbole somewhere near Las Vegas I had been motoring non-stop for over three hours now and was keen to get off the interstate to meet nightfall on a lonely road in the eastern Mojave Desert. But upon arrival at the point of embarkment for my evening's cruise I found myself not alone and in a bind. Queued-up with like intent were no less than four other vehicles all presumably loaded with college students eager as I to learn exotic secrets revealed only in the desert darkness. I had two options; one, fall in line, hoping for meager left-overs of their passage, or two, brashly overtake the caravan leader, distance myself, then cruise at my own pace leaving plenty of time awash of my passing so as not to limit the opportunities of the following seekers. The latter rang imperative and so, begging forgiveness, I gunned my little four-banger, pressing onward toward adventure. The evening air was cooler than I had hoped for but certainly warm enough to invite some nighttime reptilian activity. Never the less, after the first 15 minutes or so of empty highway my tenuous hopes for a big night were waning...would I strike-out and find nothing? Immediately the familiar and exciting vision of a slender whitish form laid-out across the blacktop answered my question. Moments like this are what propelled me on this quest. The feeling is surreal and addicting. It's the peak of anticipation, wondering just what amazing creature would be revealed upon closer inspection. I stopped quickly to identify a beautiful sub-adult Glossy Snake which I took only a moment to appreciate, the glow of headlights a mile or so behind pushing me to resume my search and remain out of range. Only ten minutes had passed before the next creature appeared in my headlamps, this time a superb sub-adult Long-nosed Snake. Although some report this species as common to "cruisers", I had yet to find one in California and so was ecstatic! I "bagged" the snake hastely so that I could photograph it in the morning, marked the location for release the next evening, then continued on my way.
Long-nosed Snake (Rhinocheilus lecontei) I could no longer see the glow of headlights behind and no cars had passed oncoming. Good stuff! All alone on some desert blacktop in the prime of the evening, but I was nearing the summit of this stretch of road and the temperature was falling. At 40 miles per hour the wind-chill forced me to roll-up the window, wondering if the night's activity would soon drop along with the temperature. Not yet! More often than not snakes are found stretched-out across the road but Sidewinders, due to their novel mode of locomotion, are typically bunched-up in an 's' curve and so reveal their identity immediately upon discovery. They are one of my favorite snakes and this one was a beauty! I don't keep "hots" but I've long thought I might like to have one of these. Knowing I was now well advanced of the caravan I took time for some photos along the roadside.
Mohave Sidewinder (Crotalus cerastes cerastes) Having passed the summit I felt the night air warming as I descended. Success in cooler temps renewed my optimism for a busy night in the balmy air, but the road ahead remained barren. Twenty minutes had passed as I approached a fork in the road where the highway I had been driving met a more frequently traveled stretch which offered a shortcut for Las Vegas bound traffic originating from Southern California's "Inland Empire". I was now at the elevational end of the road, my window was down and my hopes were high. I could turn back to retrace my route but decided to try my luck where I could travel more miles at a lower elevation. In order to remain alert after a long day I paused momentarily to pop open a 16 oz. "Monster" energy drink, then a left-hand turn and I was on my way. Five minutes later, with no cars in sight and bingo, another Sidewinder came into view. I took time to really appreciate the chunky litte rattlesnake before ushering it off the road, hopefully the little animal had learned its lesson about highway safety. Another twenty minutes on my gradual ascent brought a chill to the air and once again my window was up but activity was down. I decided to focus my efforts on the bottom of the valley and so made a "U-turn" to retrace my passage. Suddenly the blissful solitude I had been enjoying was violated by the glow of oncoming headlights a mile or so ahead. Could it be the vanguard of the herping caravan long since out-paced? If so then no worries, they certainly would have left unharmed any crossers of the road. If not, I would brace myself for the possibility of the unfortunate. As the large pickup truck sped past I cruised on hoping such intrusions would remain infrequent. Arriving back at the "fork" I chose the untested option but ahead rose yet another beacon racing my way. Just prior to its passing my headlamps fell upon a distorted form and I knew right off that not all was well in the night. I stopped quickly to identify the mangled carcass, an adult Glossy Snake, then got back on the road just as the oncoming vehicle raced by. Did more such carnage await in my path? The question was soon answered as I came upon another freshly dispatched victim, also a Glossy Snake. After removing the snake from the highway. The headlamp glow of two more vehicles in the distance stirred my anxieties. Why the sudden increase in traffic? As they passed I determined to drive on for a mile or so, then double-back hopefully toward a calmer evening in their wake. It wasn't long before the results of their passage deepened my somber mood, this time a once beautiful Long-nosed Snake, and now a glow afore and oncoming tested my optimism. At this moment I despised Las Vegas and all it represents, as its depraved allure sucked the weak-minded from their desperate lairs and onto this desolate stretch of highway, otherwise virtually untraveled. Were these vice bound travelers, blinded by visions of neon lights, slot machines and obscene theatrics, unable to see and avoid the innocent creatures crossing their path? Or were they callus in their obsession, indifferent to, or even contemptuous of any being not promising immediate gratification and so not inclined to avoid this arbitrary taking of life, Probably not so much as they were simply regular folks, perhaps lacking imagination, seeking any sensation loud enough to echo hollow in the void of their souls. Yes, these were the thoughts which swam in my angry mind. Was I rational in my resentment? Hardly. Frustration had unbalanced reason. What if they were all as I, cruising this very road, seeking that sought oft not? What if they had all joined the caravan and this lonely highway was instead a veritable Disneyland for "herpers". There are such places so well known for their potential, yet so rare, that they've fallen for their very appeal. So, maybe they're all better off in Las Vegas, or Magic Mountain, or at home watching American Idol, or whatever, just so long as they're not here to spoil the empty vastness. I fought to regain my composure, view this world from a greater perspective, and resolved to steel my emotions and accept this nightly carnage as a fact of life, and that by being here at least I had saved a being or two from certain slaughter. The latest oncomers passed, their appetite for bright lights, crowds and gaming perhaps temporarily sated by a one night stand in "Sin City". Were they aware of the harmless Glossy Snake they had just obliterated? I moved the fourth carcass off the road and continued on, seeking to avoid this barrage of traffic by returning to the less traveled initial leg of my search where my luck should improve. Consolation startled me from my despair as a tiny snake with a striking pattern emerged from the darkness. I was out of my truck in a flash to apprehend the serpentine jewel, a Mojave Shovel-nosed Snake. "Lucky you" I said to myself as I admired the creature in my flashlight beam. This was the first of this form I had seen and so retained it overnight to study and photograph in natural light.
Mohave Shovel-nosed Snake (Chionactis occipitalis occipitalis) The fortunate find bouyed my spirits and relaxed my disappointment as I reached the fork in the road to rework the quieter section of highway which provides no shortcut to anywhere one would travel on a Friday night. But there had been traffic unfriendly as testified by an unlucky Sidewinder laying crushed upon the pavement. Why was I seeing so many dead and missing those live? Why had I found more snakes on the busier highway? The answer to both questions is simple and revealing. Since reading of "night driving" as a youngster in Carl Kauffeld's thrilling work "Snakes and Snake Hunting" I had the idea that snakes are attracted to heat retaining asphalt as the night air cools, and that sensing that warmth they would lay there to soak it up. This may well be so in some cases but my experience indicates that by majority they are simply found in the act of crossing so that they actually spend little time on the pavement. Of course any snakes hit by cars remain in place so that numbers of snakes found live or dead increases with traffic, though the count dead will naturally exceed that of the living, even though most will cross untouched. The fact that snakes found on roads are typically stretched-out rather than coiled-up further supports the notion that they are on the move rather than idlely exploiting the source of warmth. It was getting late and including the drive from my home near the coast in Ventura, California, I had been driving virtually non-stop now for six hours, most of that time spent intensely focused on the twighlight at the furthest reach of my high beams. Fatigue was setting in as the effect of the "Monster" taken earlier was folding to my mind's necessity for replenishment. The action had abated so I decided to make a "U-turn" and head toward a favored camping location which required one more traverse of the busy lanes which had yeilded so much yet so little. Only a mile now from the "fork" and a black and white banded serpent appeared ahead. Would the boldly patterned snake add a new species to the night's finds? I had been hoping to encounter the pure black and white desert form of California Kingsnake and as I rushed up to capture this one I was momentarily fooled into thinking I had. The snake however turned-out to be not that but a stunning "clarus phase" Long-nosed Snake which lacks the red pigmentation of the more common form.. Not what I had hoped for but certainly no disappointment. Having already captured a normally colored individual earlier in the evening I decided to "borrow" this one as well to document the two disparate colorations, each beautiful in its own rite.
Long-nosed Snake (Rhinocheilus lecontei) Once more on the road I passed "the fork" and headed on toward my intended site of repose, hoping that I'd find the road free of casualties and perhaps enjoy more good luck along the way. The traffic had subsided but the only luck I had would be not good. Another "dead on road" Long-nosed Snake was the last find of the evening as fatigue overcame my enthusiasm. Next stop would be to prepare my bivouac, enjoy the crisp, hoppy refreshment of a Sierra Nevada Pale Ale, and revisit the night's adventures while the stars twinkled above and a cool desert zephyr buffeted the cab of my little pickup. What would tomorrow brrzzzzzz...?
Bivouac Morning broke cool, clear and calm in the granite cove where I had made camp. I arose eagerly to the call of an Ash-throated Flycather and, anticipating a busy day afield, brewed a rich cup of liquid ambition to fortify my enthusiasm. The first order of business was to photograph my prizes of the evening past.
Long-nosed Snake (Rhinocheilus lecontei) After an hour or so of wrangling both serpent and camera it was time to set out so I made off for a large sandy expanse where I might find tell-tale tracks of nocturnal natives criss-crossing the dunes, and hopefully some diurnal denizens as well. Along the way I reminded myself that this was wild country in vernal tempest and so each turn in the road could reveal a wonderful surprise. Might that be a Great Basin Gophersnake activated by the first rays of morning sun, Or perhaps a Mojave Rattlesnake on the crawl seeking new territory? It was too cool yet for a speedy racer or whipsnake but might a sluggish Desert Tortoise be afoot? A tiny but intriguing anomaly appeared in the roadway to beg my attention. The little creature was not one but two, a pair of showy beetles locked together in procreation. I took time to document the curious event then noticed that a flowery little shrub nearby was playing host to a crowd of these insects. Having been here one year ago, even a couple weeks earlier in the season, I noted that this year there were many and various flowers blooming about where none had been the last, a year of epic drought which had supressed the desert's fecundity. My fortunes this year had already trumped that of my previous visit. Such a grand time I was having and the day was only now unfolding!
Beetles 'in flagrante' (caution: don't try this at home) The next bit of excitement was a Tiger Whiptail lizard which crossed the road in front of me, then patiently permitted a photograph from my car window. This lizard appeared to be a gravid female perhaps searching for a suitable nest site.
Great Basin Whiptail (Aspidoscelis tigris tigris) I arrived at dunes and prior to setting out took a little time to release the Shovel-nosed Snake where it could find plenty of loose, well shaded substrate in which to burrow. After a couple more photos it was on its way, and I on mine.
Mohave Shovel-nosed Snake(Chionactis occipitalis occipitalis) There was no one about and the sun was still low enough to highlight tracks in the sand which told of many and various acitivities in the previous night. In daylight the tracks offer only an enigma and I thought how wonderful it would be to see in the dark to witness all the nocturnal goings on, free of disturbance. But now the activity was subdued, though a handsome Zebra-tailed Lizard scurrying away added life to the picture, posing briefly for a photograph before speeding off to cover. It has been my experience that lizards of the dunes are extremely wary and difficult to approach. I'm always amazed by sharp close-ups of these dunes dwellers which I see posted on herping forums. Kudos to any who acheive such success!
The Dunes
Western Zebra-tailed Lizard (Callisaurus draconoides rhodostictus) I hiked on searching carefully around the base of creosote bushes and peering into burrows illuminated by my small hand-held mirror. Each step brought me closer to the next surprise, then there it lay! From the corner of my eye an anomalous "rock" caught my attention as the only rock one would see in the sandy realm would be alive. And so it was. An adult Desert Tortoise clambering about the dunes had stopped to forage upon the flowers of a small plant. Now here was a photo subject which couldn't run away as did the flighty lizards, but ironically, as I gained its attention the sage old creature withdrew into its shell so as to thwart my attempts at a pleasing photograph. While waiting for acceptance I admired this tough and venerable animal which, at well over ten years of age, had survived as many brutally hot dry summers and freezing winters, including last year's intense drought. Such a fit product of the rigors of evolution was this hearty beast, noble in its tenacity to life in such a harsh, merciless environment. As if to gratify my admiration, the animal at last emerged from its portable hide-out to munch again on the juicy blossoms.
Desert Tortoise (Gopherus agassizii) A voice yonder broke the crystal silence announcing the arrival of others to explore the dunes. Then, fishing pole in hand, a fit young man rose from behind a dune to gain my notice. Most would find the fishing pole difficult to explain in a place where never a drop of water will stand. But I knew better. He was "fishing" for lizards using a time-honored technique to gain capture and permit close inspection. Others appeared and it was soon apparent that these were of the group I had overtaken on commencement of last night's foray. I spoke to the young man and learned that his was indeed a party of biology students and their teachers from Cal Poly at San Luis Obispo on the central coast of California. And I thought my journey here was long. Their drive had been a full two hours in excess! We shared notes of the night's successes and I learned the advantage of having many eyes afield as he related the finds of a contingent which had forsaken vehicular travel to search on foot by lantern in the desert washes. It was one thing to find snakes upon the road, a highly efficient method, but one which lacked the ultimate thrill of finding animals "on the crawl" in their native habitat. To search alone on foot could bring only very limited success so, having few opportunties to visit the desert in season, I chose the lazy man's route to enjoy quantity over quality. But the ultimate satisfaction, however spare, would be to find these fascinating creatures "in situ" reflecting the beam of a flashlight. I envied them for their success, but for me nature is best enjoyed in solitude. Our paths diverged and I soon happend upon an interesting set of tracks in the sand then almost immediately upon that treking, another Desert Tortoise, roughly the same size as the first. I never expected these to be so abundant but despite the waning of the season, a cooler than normal spring had allowed their favored blooms to persist and so they were out to exploit the vital yet ephemeral source of moisture and nutrition.
Desert Tortoise (Gopherus agassizii) I meandered about threading my way between small groups of students, startling an occasional but unwilling Whiptail, while enjoying the sublte shades and forms of the sand dunes which appear as waves frozen in time but are in reality on the move and never static, albeit at a pace so leisurely as to defy perception. I had been especially alert for the unique signature in the sand produced as a sidewinder loops its body across the dunes, also in a wave like manor, and my scrutiny was finally rewarded. I followed the trail, guessing as best I could its vector of travel, hoping against odds to find the perpetrator. At one point the tracks became confused in a mess which suggested a skirmish had ensued. Had the Sidewinder found trouble, or maybe a Kangaroo Rat its demise? Such mysteries haunt these waves of sand and so enrich the experience.
Sidewinder Tracks While scanning across the creosote studded hardpan on the periphery of the dunes my eye caught an interesting form a hundred yards away which invited a look through my binoculars. I was surprised to makeout a Burrowing Owl which as I attempted approach immediately took notice and flew off. Burrowing Owls are truly unique among owls, and birds in general. Although the do not actually burrow, they roost and nest in excavations of ground squirrels and Desert Tortoises. They are rare among owls as being active by day and often allow close approach to offer a stunning visage. An explosion of excitement arose from a posse nearby as a vigilant young trooper had corraled a large lizard in a creosote bush and alerted the gang of a novel find. Along with the others I made my way to the developing frenzy, feeling somewhat emabarassed by the ruckus but not wanting to miss out on the action. The posse had the bush surrounded to belay any escape of the Desert Iguana, so the normally ground-dwelling creature took refuge by climbing up into a dense tangle in the heart of the creosote to present a seemingly impossible opportunity for the intrepid noosers. Brandishing their trusty fishing poles the nimrods sought deftly to snare the ingrate and experience prevailed as one of the leaders of the group defied physics to loop the lizard for presentation to the fascinated following. I took a few pictures as a heartful young co-ed gently dipslayed the "Iggie" which puffed up to appear as large and menacing as it could muster. It was a fine and hearty specimen, no doubt disappointed with its fortune, but careful handling and expedient release would insure no harm to come. They were an open, friendly bunch and I thanked them for the great find and the opportunity to photograph it.
Northern Desert Iguana (Dipsosaurus dorsalis dorsalis) I made my way back to the parking area to find again as many students and staff having apparently "sat out" the morning adventure preferring to snack and socialize. I presumed these not to be the zoology majors, probably having come along more out of scholastic obligation rather than to experience first-hand desert ecology. Just as well I thought, not knowing just how much pressure the limited habitat at the dunes could withstand. Time to move along so back in the saddle and off I went. A turn right at "the fork" and shortly therefter a large, whitish lizard surprised me as it dashed across the road just ahead. I couldn't turn around fast enough to track it down but it appeared to be another Desert Iguana. I resolved to drive more slowly anticipating more such action and fearing I might do more harm than good at a higher pace. After fifteen minutes or so I came to a "t" where a road led off toward a mountain pass so I took a venture and decided to cruise it slowly to find what lurked - and lurking just a mile from where I had made my turn was a large lizard basking on the pavement. Close approach drew no alarm from the saurian sunbather and amazingly enough the Long-nosed Leopard Lizard allowed me to approach near enough to get a decent photo from my car window! In years past as a bird photographer I knew the value of this technique but had never thought to use it to photograph lizards. Today I had alreadly enjoyed success on two occasions. A couple more passes yielded nothing so I returned to the highway.
Long-nosed Leopard Lizard (Gambelia wislizenii) My plan was to head to higher elevations for the day to visit a remote mountain canyon I had read of but not yet visited. But as I gained altitude the air cooled enough to discourage my advance so I detoured to visit an interesting location in the middle of an expansive Joshua Tree forest. Here temperatures seemed ideal for daytime activity and so I set off for a hike searching carefully, trying to visualize a Patch-nosed Snake or a Red Racer amongst the vegetation. Curiously, despite what seemed optimal conditions and habitat for creeping critters only a couple Side-blotched Lizards were showing. Apparent though was the understated lushness of the desert flora.
Joshua Tree forest The desert floor was adorned in a plethora of low scrub like plants, forbs and cacti, many in blooms of violet, purple, red, blue and yellow. Mojave Yucca with their large blossoms retracted in the daytime heat would open at night to emit their alluring fragrance to attract nectivorous nocturnal foragers, namely bats. Sprawling limbs of Joshua Trees added interest and endless variety to the landscape as Bewick's Wrens sang boisturuosly. And they were not alone as other birds were also about. A Crissal Thrasher, a species barely ranging into the eastern most portion of California joined the chorus as well as did the ubiquitous Black-throated Sparrows, and a Cactus Wren singing from atop a Joshua Tree added spice to the mix. After an hour so of exploration I decided to head back down to a lower elevation hoping for more lizards and most of all a snake I had never yet seen, the Red Racer.
A Bloomin' Cactus I back-tracked leisurely cruising the pavement expecting at any moment to see a Racer crossing the road. If I would be so lucky I'd need even more luck to capture the beast as they are well named for their speed and reputed to be highly alert and intelligent. The first one I found was neither speedy nor alert as its flattened corpse had been rotting on the asphalt long enough to blend seamlessly into the road, explaining why I hadn't seen it on my first pass. Tragic, never the less, it confirmed the possibility of finding a live one so I took it for the best. Less than best was my next encounter, this time a freshly wasted racer. Yes, they were out this warm afternoon, chancing to cross the highway searching for lizards or a mate, sadly to meet misfortune. The brilliant pinkish red body and strking black and white facial pattern contrasted despairingly with the grim reality of a life gone under. The irony of human "progress" came to mind as that which offered access to this wonderous world is also that which might destroy it. I resumed my search, ever more vigilant that I would certainly avoid such ill consequence. Coming to the road on which I had previously chanced upon the Leopard Lizard, I turned left to have another go of it. The pale form of a lizard appeared and I slowed to stalk the basker. The trick again proved successful as I was able to pull up right next to the colorful Zebra-tailed Lizard and attempt some photographs. This was fun stuff, lots of action and variety amid endless vistas, rarely another car in sight.
Western Zebra-tailed Lizard (Callisaurus draconoides rhodostictus) Soon I was back on the highway cruising slowly, attempting to "will up" a live racer. But alas, another mile brought another casualty which begged the question, "How could the population of these snakes sustain this daily slaughter?". Fortunatley for the many roads and highways crossing the desert the land directly influenced by their presence is tiny relative to the millions of acres of surrounding habitat. The vast reservoir of animals inhabiting the untouched expanse serve to replenish the unfortunate few, a number which to us seems horrific but relative to the many unclaimed is negligable. Yet for a herper and lover of things not born of man, the unheralded tradgedies are never the less unacceptable. As my concious mind pondered this dilemna, my subconcious, fixed on the road ahead, issued a sudden "STOP!" as the visualization of my reptilian quarry was realized. The snake had just moved off the broad hardpan shoulder into the oncoming lane and fortuitously there was room to pull a half "U", hopefully blocking its return to cover. My door was open before stopping but the wary serpent had already assessed its options and whipped about to make directly for a low embankment on the roadside. My mind snapped a photograph of the lithe and impressive four footer as it made the foot of the bank at top speed, I following only seconds behind, thinking I'd have my chance to make a grab as it climbed toward the brush atop. But the wiley speedster knew exactly where it was going and just as I prepared to lunge up the ten foot slope every inch disappeared without hesitation into a small burrow. Drat! The creature was truly impressive and seemed even to exceed its species reputation for blinding speed and agility. But even greater was the impression of intelligence. I smarted at my failure but was elated by the chance to finally experience this amazing animal first hand and knew that, if not this, the day would come when I'd have my chance to capture and photgraph such a brute. The next dead racer would hit me even harder that the first. The toll of the dead now rang three for this day alone, and but one alive. I choked back the disappointment to focus on the image I had concsciously burned into my memory in that brief moment when the chase was on, the only image I would have to keep. No more surprises awaited as I made the "Y" and turned right to head toward the little town where I had exited the highway almost twenty four hours past. I needed a full tank of gas to support any destination I might choose in my nighttime pursuit. It was mid-afternoon but even in the valley temperatures were not excessive so I was optimistic for more action along the way. I enjoyed my second "Monster" of the day, but I'd grown weary of the beef jerky and crackers I had relied upon for sustenance, so decided to seek the service of a diner in the town ahead, but first I ventured a couple more short hikes along the way. Neither foray produced but while passing a rocky roadcut I noticed a large Chuckwalla surveying his territory from a stony outcrop. I stopped, hoping to make an approach but the big lizard would have none of it and quickly dove into a crevice. The sighting aroused my enthusiasm for one more leisurely stroll about the broken basalt which offered nothing more, so back to the truck and back on the road.
Chuckwalla (Sauromalus ater) - photo from another adventure A couple whiptails scurrying off the road breifly interupted my passage to habitation but soon I was sitting at a table in a Greek restaurant, sipping coffee and waiting for my meal to be served. Ubiquitous billboards advertising the improbable diner provided milestones along the interstate which brought life to this remote outpost, which if not for "Vegas" would have fallen soundly to sleep ages ago. But it slept not a wink as "Vegas" knows not day from night save for the rising and setting of the sun. The mix of patrons was eclectic. A mirror in the foyer reflected a handsome young hopeful assessing his chances of an overnight romance in the seamy city ahead. European accents on foreign tongues rose above the din from the booth behind me as a Chinese family pulled up in a late model Jaguar to sample the cuisine. A diamond studded blonde pouted to her nattily attired escort as they joined the queue to place their order, while a couple youngsters ran about, joyous to gain freedom after hours bound. Endless comings and goings of the anonymous seeking excitment demanded non-stop attention from the dutiful and harried staff for whom this day would be only another in their ceaseless toil. The pastrami burger I had ordered was a disappointment and the atmosphere overwhelming so I hastily emptied my second cup of enemic coffee, paid the tab and got heck out of there. I was again one with my truck, the sun well past its zenith casting long shadows across the desert floor. I knew this was the "magic hour", the gradual transition between light and dark which would lure from their hideouts crepuscular creatures which shun the high sun, to forage by dawn and evening light. Two among those which had so far escaped my fortune were the Great Basin Gophersnake, a race especially attractive in this locale, and the Mojave Rattlesnake, known for its potent venom and often irascible disposition. Either might lurk on road or skirt around the next bend so I kept a light foot on the gas, strecthing my gaze to consume both pavement and shoulder, so not to overlook any subtle form emerging in my path. Soon to reward my vigilance was indeed a form subtle and quite unexpected as a smallish lizard barely discernable from the road surface in the warm evening glow caught my eye, but not in time to stop. I staddled the lizard, then slammed the little truck into reverse to approach from an optimal angle respecting the ambient light, hoping the little animal would remain patient to permit a good look, and if luck would have it, a decent photograph.
Mojave Fringe-toed Lizard(Uma scoparia) As I crept closer it became apparent that this was a species I had never yet had the opportunity to view closley, the Mojave Fringe-toed Lizard, normally a skittish dweller of the sand dunes, which I had somehow missed in the morning's exploration. What was it doing here so unexpectedly in the middle of the highway, surrounded by creosote covered flats void of any dunes? The lizard was flattened-out, hugging the warm pavement, obviously intent on drawing up every bit of warmth it could gather. As such it seemed determined to hold its ground and so permitted my photography, in fact, so permissive was it that I worried for its health, but those worries were soon relieved when as I exited my truck and attempted capture, as it bolted away at top speed disappearing into the desert. Moving along toward sunset, mile after empty mile, the day of arduous, incessant searching was taking its toll. After a day of regular caffeine consumption, the two very recent cups of coffee, if at all effective, served only to bouy me from the abyss of fatigue induced catatonia.
Highway Hypnosis Just when I'd become concerned with my ability to endure safely another night of intense focus within the hypnotic light cone of my high beams, I was forced to swerve to avoid a "rock" in the road which, had I been fresh, would have been sighted well in time to stop. I backed-up slowly and carefully as the armoured chelonian, having sacrificed flight for fortification many eons ago, would go nowhere too soon. This was a youngster by tortoise standards, its shell about six inches in length, and probably no more the five years old. As such it was especially endearing yet even still, offered a hardened visage reflecting the austere and brutal world in which it thrives. I was happy to move it off the road but concerned for the inevtiable misfortunes of the highway it or others of its kind would encounter. The find did more for me than a bucket of coffee and I was once more alert and ready to give it my all in the coming darkness.
Desert Tortoise (Gopherus agassizii) The twighlight induced a reverie and my thoughts turned to the little ones I'd left at home. I wondered what they were up to in our comfortable, well lighted home as I, so many miles removed, forged on into the pitch of night. Would "Sparky", the irrepressible two year-old be crawling about, curiously examining all in his path? Would Darwin, who so looks forward to his evening "walks", be waiting at the door, hoping for my prompt return? And how about the others? What were their hopes and fears? Were they pining for my warm embrace? Probably not, as snakes just aren't the sentimental sort. In fact, I often wonder if they despise my unrequitted affections. Just as well I thought, for what is love if not selfless. It was purely dark now as I approached the location where I'd last night captured the "clarus phase" Long-nosed Snake. I stopped, offered the snake a drink of water which it took heartily, then hiked a short distance from the road and bid it farewell, admired it as it crawled off to freedom, then got back on the road headed toward where I'd return the first Long-nosed borrowed. The miles in between produced nothing, but shortly after the second release I chanced upon a large adult Glossy Snake, this one the finest example of that species I had ever encountered. As I had forsaken photos for expedience on last night's find I decided I'd keep this one overnight to enjoy in the morning so marked the spot for return.
Glossy Snake (Arizona elegans) At least a half hour had passed before my next bit of luck, this time a tiny neonate sidewinder which I teased off the road. This was the fourth rattlesnake I'd found live or dead, all of one species though three species occur in the area. Where were the Mojaves and the Speckled? Surely I'd find at least one other. Then third snake of the evening was an adult Long-nosed which appeared to be a intergrade form, with only subtle red-flecking in the creamy ground color between black saddles. I was so tempted to keep a Long-nosed for addition to my collection but reason resisted and so off it crawled, hopefully toward a successful evening. Another adult Long-nosed, this time a "normal" individual showing lots of brilliant scarlet graced the night. As I held the snake I noticed that it appeared somewhat thin and its languid disposition indicated that it was not entirely well. As such it proved an amenable photo subject and prior to release I offered it water which, surprisingly it appeared to refuse.
Long-nosed Snake (Rhinocheilus lecontei) As I made the "y" I was once again to enter the busier highway and hoped that tonight would bring less traffic and less to grieve. I worked the portion of the road which last night had been so ugly but tonight did prove less hectic and thankfully the next snake I found after a couple passes was another live Shovel-nosed which looked to be a carbon copy of the first, but a close look revealed a hint of red in between the black saddles. When I first saw it, the tiny snake could just as well have been a Leaf-nosed which I was hoping for to add a new species to the trip list but there was no disappointment as I welcomed a second chance to enjoy the secretive little burrower. It was now late in the evening, the night air had chilled to a marginal temperature, and my alertness was compromised. I was twenty miles from the campsite where I'd spend the night so I determined to slowly make one last pass then call it a day. The last snake of the evening was another robust and healthy adult "clarus phase" Long-nosed Snake. Again I resisted temptation to collect and so released it to its fortune. It had been a long, tiring but exciting evening and I had found some wonderful animals, gladly all live. Upon reaching the campsite, I parked my truck as close to level as I could, then opened a cold one, took a pull from a bottle of brandy, then "chilled-out" for a bit to relive my day, and what a day it had been! So many choice moments, some to fulfill anticipations, others entirely unexpected. The advent of digital photography has added a new dimension to this sort of adventure and the day's photo-captures brought a special life to my reflections. Sleep came too easily and dawn too soon.
Bivouac Once I had taken breakfast and packed-up it was time to find a nice situation in which to photograph last night's capture. I found a flat basalt boulder about three feet in height which permitted me to take some close-up images without aching my stiff old back. Twenty minutes in some cool water had calmed the Glossy Snake enough for it to provide some pleasing poses so I snapped away happily, all the while marveling at the beauty of this particular specimen. Once I was sure of getting at least a few "keepers" it was time to move on to the point of its capture for release. It was still early in the morning but the sun was warming the air and ground quickly so I was optimistic for a new discovery as I cruised the highway when a long, mottled form appeared on the gravelly shoulder ahead. At first I thought it would be the Gophersnake I had been so anxious to see but as I jumped out of my truck to approach it became apparent that I would need my snake hook for this one! What a great surprise! The Mojave Rattlesnake was a real looker and wide awake. Prior to attempting to pose the snake I took an "in situ" shot, then coaxed it into a defensive posture for a more dramatic scene. The snake was not entirely cooperative but I did manage to get one nice image before it had its way and made for cover. Wow! What a thrill. I was so happy to have chanced upon this awesome creature in broad daylight.
Northern Mohave Rattlesnake (Crotalus scutulatus scutulatus) After releasing the Glossy Snake into some thick cover I got back on the road to head back home. A few morning Whiptails were all that appeared prior to reaching the interstate but I was well sated by the weekend adventure and looked forward to a hot shower, a good meal and a relaxing afternoon editing the images from my trip while day-dreaming about next year's adventure to the eastern Mojave. |
